Rakaposhi is 11th highest in Pakistan and 27th in World ranking. It is one of the magnificent peaksin the world and is situated near Gilgit town. Its height is 7,788m/25,551ft and is climbable from
all sides. Diran is situated between Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin,
The Rakaposhi and Diran peaks dominate the horizon and is constantly visible from the Karakoram
Highway. It looks so beautiful that the first-ever glance at it inspires charm and lures an onlooker to
be in its abode. It is also one of the easily accessible peaks. In 1958, a British-Pakistan forces
expedition tried its luck on Rakaposhi. It was led by Captain Michael E.B. Banks and included
veteran Captain Shah Khan of Gilgit Scouts. The party attempted the peak through the Monk's
Head. Due to severe cold, it used additional "down-filled-clothing and 136 vapour-barrier boots".
The leader, Captain Bank, and Lieutenant T.W. Paiey of the Royal Navy, reached the summit. The
party did not use oxygen. Banks had frost-bitten feet while Patey had frost-bitten hands. While on
Diran Peak, “A three member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph
Pischinger and Hanns Schell, climbed this peak in 1968.
Range Karakorum
Zone Open
Altitude MIN 610 m to MAX 4005 m
Duration 14 days
Best Season May to End of September
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